Blog - Page 2 of 8 - Brady Roofing

Shoot for Big Rewards

We are excited to announce our winter promo for December 2014. All of our customers during the month of December will be automatically entered into a contest to win Utah Jazz tickets to a home game in January!

Not only do you have a chance to win, but all of our services are discounted.

shoot for big rewards-01

Install some of our amazing TPO snow fences to keep the snow on your slick roof this season. Virtually undetectable, and only $11.50 a ft, these snow fences are unlike any thing offered in Utah.

TPO Snow Fence

Do you need a repair or re-roof? Save up to $1000, depending on the job, when you hire Brady Roofing!

If you have any questions or would like to request a free estimate, contact us today at 801-487-5151!

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How Do I Insulate My Flat Roof or Cathedral Ceiling?

Last week, we talked about attic insulation. This week, we want to address those homes and buildings who may not have attics, such as flat roofs and homes with cathedral ceilings, and discuss the available insulation options for your roof.

You see, if you have any attic space at all, installing roof insulation is essentially a waste of money. The air flow from your ventilation system undoes any benefit that roof insulation would have offered. But if you do not have an attic space, it is very important to insulate the roof.

Insulation options include rigid insulation board installed above the wood deck, under the roofing material, batt insulation installed under the wood deck, between the rafters, and spray foam insulation installed under the wood deck. We put together some information about these options to help you make the best choice for your home.

Insulation-02

Rigid Insulation

Rigid insulation boards are required to install on flat roofs to protect the roofing membrane from the roof deck, with nails and screw edges.  If membrane was installed right on top of those, it would wear through the membrane.

However, most of these ‘recovery’ rigid board insulation is only ½ inch thick and does not offer a lot of R-value to the overall roof.

When it comes to rigid insulation board, I recommend iso (Polyisocyanurate) insulation.  With this insulation, it is much easier to accommodate the height of the insulation to the drip edge or parapets because the R-value is greater per inch, therefore requiring less layers of iso board.  The R-Value of iso per inch is about 6 after it has aged.

If you would like a roof with an R Value of 30, and decide to use iso board, you will layer the board until it is about 5 inches thick.  This is a big deal, because with EPS, you will need about 7 ½ inches of insulation.  This causes problems with installing skylights with curbs that are tall enough.  All penetrations, side walls and curbs would need 8 inches of flashing in addition to being tall enough to accomodate the insulation.

One benefit to EPS is that they offer rigid insulation with a taper system.  This is much less expensive.  If 4’X4’ panels are put down, it is simple to acheive a slope from the high point to the low point.  This is a good option for flat roofs, which are required to have a slope to be eligable for the maximum warranty on flat roof jobs.

Rigid insulation boards are required to install on flat roofs to protect the roofing membrane from the roof deck, with nails and screw edges.  If membrane was installed right on top of those, it would wear through the membrane.

Insulation-03

Traditional Rafter Insulation

If you are choosing to install insulation between your rafters, make sure it is a strong enough insulation to achieve the R-Value you need for your roof.  You can view the average R-value

You can figure out what R-value is necessary for the area you live in using this interactive map from the International Energy Conservation Code (embed https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/?state=Utah)

Cementitious Foam

One option would be to completely fill the rafters with cementitious foam.  To achieve an R-Value of 38, the cavity would need to be 8-9.5 inches deep, which would make the possibility of skylights harder to implement.  However, this insulation has absolutely no air flow, reducing the chance of moisture and mold, and so would reduce or eliminate the need for ventilation in the ceiling.

Loose Fill Cellulose

Cellulose is probably the most common way to insulate a cathedral ceiling or flat roof interior.  It is inexpensive per the R-Value.  It can be professionally blown into the rafters, packed to a density that will control moisture and air flow.  This is becoming the preferred method of insulating cathedral ceilings.  Also, if it is dense – packed, it is more likely to want to expand than settle.

Other Traditional Insulation

You can look over the chart above to determine what other insulation might be the best choice for you.  However, some of these may allow air flow, so research to see what changes you may need to make to the ventilation.

A Combination of Rafter and Roof Insulation

It is a viable option to  install a combination of rafter insulation under the wood deck and rigid foam board above.

For example, you could put three layers of iso board above the deck, and 6.5 inches of cementitious foam below for an R-Value of 44.

Either way, be sure to check with a contractor to be sure that all of your penetrations and ventilation system is correctly installed.

Contact us for a free roofing quote today.  801-487-5151

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What Insulation Should I Install In My Attic?

Are you looking to improve your attic’s insulation? Having a well insulation attic can save you money continuously, both in heating and cooling costs and in preserving the life of your shingles.

Attic insulation ties in with ventilation. It is not worth much doing one without the other. We have focused a lot on ventilation in the past. The goal of both good insulation and good ventilation is to establish an attic that has the same temperature inside as it does outside. This never happens in reality, but that is the goal. If we can create an attic space that can keep the warm air from your home in winter from going through the ceiling, it can help lengthen the life of the shingles as well as prevent ice dams.

So how should we install our attic insulation? There are so many options, it is hard to sift through all of the information. Take a look at some of the available insulation below:

Insulation-02

Generally, blown in insulation is better than batt insulation in attics.  The most common attic insulation is cellulose, which is basically just recycled paper treated to be more fireproof and rodent / insect proof.  We want to make it easy for you to look into all of your options in one place.  Just refer to the chart below to see what insulation might fit your needs.

Insulation-03

Cementitious Foam for Attics

Cementitious Foam is basically a lightweight cement substance that can be sprayed into your attic’s ceiling cavity.  It looks like shaving cream as it is sprayed in, and dries without shrinking away, successfully blocking air flow.  This foam is naturally water and fireproof, and blocks sound effectively.  Perhaps the only disadvantage of this product is it’s price!

Cellulose Loose Fill Insulation

The most popular of attic insulation, cellulose is a recycled and inexpensive naturally-insulating product that has a high R-Value.  However, it does have several downsides.  It is treated to resist fire and rodents, but this non-toxic chemical has been known to seep out if the material under certain circumstances.  Also, if cellulose insulation gets wet at all, it will take a very long time to dry, if ever.  Overall, it is not a bad choice for the average homeowner.

Loose Fill Sheep’s Wool Insulation

Another potentially expensive, but high quality, product is natural sheeps wool.  It is available in batts and as loose fill.  It is the ultimate green product, naturally fire and water resistant, and also serves as a good sound barrier.  It also never ‘settles’ like many other loose fill products do, increasing it’s effectiveness.

Loose Fill Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass insulation is recycled glass and plastic blown into tiny fibers.  This insulation is incredibly inexpensive, but is prone to damage from moisture and has a relatively low R-Value per inch.  It also requires special installation and safety gear to install.

Polystyrene Insulation

Polystyrene is essentially styrofoam.  It is also known as EPS, expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene, depending on the type of polystyrene you are talking about.  This can be used as a board, a foam or as little beads (loose fill).  This is generally an expensive option and, instead, we recommend EPS for roof insulation for homes or buildings without an attic.

Good luck insulating your attic!  If you have any questions, please contact us today at 801-487-5151

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The Science of a Waterproof Roof

By Dymon Brady
We all know that a well installed roof keeps water out. But have you ever wondered why? Why don’t those roofing nails put holes in the roof that cause more leaks? Why do you need shingles if there is a waterproof layer (underlayment) installed on every roof? Just for fun, I wanted to answer a few of those questions today.

Roofing Underlayment, Salt Lake City, Utah Roofers

You are right, underlayment is installed on every roof. Some contractors, including Brady Roofing, actually install a thick underlayment called ice shield on the outer edges of the roof for extra protection. But why do we need such a strong waterproof installed beneath shingles? Aren’t shingles supposed to keep water out?

The truth is, even brand new shingles can get water under them. Especially in situations with ice dams or heavy rains, water can seep up and under the shingles. In case of this situation, the underlayment provides a perfect backup, and in the end you never have to know that your shingles can’t do their job all on their own.  (Learn more about your roof’s underlayment)

This brings up the question: why do we need shingles? If water regularly gets under the shingles anyways, why do we even need them?

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While underlayment is a great backup, it is no match for the strength and resistance offered against the elements by your shingles, metal panels, etc. These roof coverings stand up against impact from hard rain and hail, extreme temperatures and stress from UV rays. Without shingles, your underlayment would fail pretty quickly.

As we install shingles, and underlayment, we must use nails. Roofing nails have disproportionately large heads and thick shafts, and when they are installed flush, they expertly keep water from working down around them and into your home below. Also, it is important to realize that the nails are installed on a strip above the shingle that never shows once the roof is completed, this protects the nails from being exposed to water and rusting.

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Another element of your roof that can often be overlooked is the flashings. Flashings are metal pieces installed around pipes, chimneys and walls. If we didn’t use flashings, it wouldn’t matter how well the rest of your roof was installed. Water would continuously leak around your chimney walls, swamp cooler, and pipes, slowly destroying your roof’s rafters and home interior. Flashings help to direct water away from these areas and seal them so that they do not collect water.

As the experts at HGTV Remodel put it “The home’s exterior isn’t a continuous surface. It has intersections, penetrations and abrupt terminations. Roofs have chimneys, dormers, ridges and valleys. Exterior walls have windows, doors and adjoining roofs. Porches and decks interrupt the flow of rain and melted snow as they move down the home. Wherever water moving down the exterior or the drainage plane has to change direction, it needs the help of flashing to keep it moving down and away from the home.”

Do you have any more questions for us? Email us at dbrady@bradyroofing.net or request a free estimate today.

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How to Tarp Your Roof: What to Do When Your Roof is Exposed

by Dymon Brady

If the wind has blown your roofing material off, or you have torn it off yourself, you probably are wondering what exactly you should do with your exposed roof. It’s happened countless times to others; the waterproof roof is gone and a storm is looming in the forecast. Luckily, there are some quick, last minute things you can do to help keep your roof watertight, with some limitations. Keep in mind that this is in no way a guaranty that you will not have water damage. Water is difficult to control in all situations and there is a potential for water damage with any temporary roof covering. These are guidelines to give you the best chance for success under the circumstances, for an average roof.

Before we get started, here are some important safety tips:

  • Only attempt to cover a roof yourself if you are in an emergency situation and cannot get help from a professional. Do not get on your roof in a lightning storm.
  • If you have a flat roof with very little or no slope, this system is not recommended.
  • Do not walk on the Visqueen or Tarp, especially if it is wet.
  • If you have an especially steep slope, harness equipment may be necessary. Do not attempt to cover your roof without professional help. If it is very steep, you should not try to cover it period. There are people who have become paraplegic or worse, lost their lives while doing things on roofs they are not capable of.
  • DO NOT COVER UP EXHAUST VENTS. Water heater and furnace ventilation pipes etc. must be able to vent above the roof covering rather than being trapped inside the roof covering. This is obviously very dangerous in terms of carbon monoxide poisoning. You can cut the covering at these ventilation points, slide down the flue pipe and seal with duct tape. You will not be able to seal to a boiler pipe or a single wall wood burning stove pipe, or any pipe over 70 degrees.

 

Gathering Materials

The first thing you are going to want to do is run to your local home improvement store for materials. Unless you already happen to have these things laying around, you will need to purchase:

  • A 20 ft roll of Visqueen (polyethylene sheeting) or a tarp that will reach the length of your roof from the ridge to the bottom of the exposed area.
  • Enough 1”X2” wood furring strips to cover the edges of the area.
  • Wood Screws 2 to 2 ½” long
  • Duct Tape
  • Any equipment you may need (drill, ladder, etc)

Visqueen is easy to work with and is better for a short term fix, especially if you will be able to have a contractor over in a few days. A tarp will hold up better if you have to wait a week or two before the work can be done.

Once you have all of your materials assembled together, take a minute to assess the situation. How big is the exposed area? Where is it located on your roof?

If the Exposed Area is Less than 20 ft Wide

HOW TO TARP YOUR ROOF-01

If you have a relatively small patch of blown off shingles, you can simply roll out the visqueen starting at the opposite side of the ridge of the roof, down to completely cover the exposed area. Make sure the visqueen or tarp extends to the ridge or high point of the surface so water doesn’t just run underneath.

The Exposed Area is Larger than 20 ft Wide

HOW TO TARP YOUR ROOF-02

You will want to roll out the visqueen going from side to side and starting at the bottom. This is actually very important, because if you rolled out the visqueen in strips from top to bottom and overlapping at the sides, it would be difficult to keep water out at the seams.

Similarly, if you were to lay out visqueen from side to side, but starting at the exposed area and working down, water will run under the laps, defeating the point of covering your roof in the first place.

So, if your exposed area is at the bottom of your roof, you will want to lay the visqueen out from side to side, starting at the bottom and layering the next layer of over the last all the way to the top of your roof, and overlapping the ridge to the other side.

Securing the Edges and Seams

As you are laying out the Visqueen, you will want to secure the edges with your 1X2 furring strips and wood screws. Roll each edge up in furring strips so moisture runs over the seam, not inside the seam. Secure the strips to your roof with your wood screws.

We need to keep in mind that Visqueen is like a big parachute, so we want to secure it down the best we can to keep it from blowing around and out of place. There are winds that will destroy visqueen so check the forecast and if there are high winds coming, go with a tarp, and fasten plenty of furring strips to the field of the tarp as well as the seams.

At each of your seams, you will want to do the same thing. Roll up the 1X2 strips at your seams and secure them. It is important that none of your seams are underwater. If a seam is underwater, moisture will travel up through the rolled up joint.

You can also try to secure your Visqueen in the center, as long as you keep in mind that if it gets really windy, the visqueen may rip.

Good luck with your roof! If you need help with your exposed roof, call Brady Roofing at 801-487-5151 or request a free roofing estimate today.

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We are Roofers. We are Brady Roofing

by Dymon Brady

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Compare Your Shingle Warranty

By Dymon Brady

Probably the easiest way to understand whether or not you are getting a good warranty is to compare the shingle warranties available to you. We have compiled our version of CertainTeed’s roofing shingle warranty comparison.

We want to make this process as easy as possible for you. We also strive to ensure that you are fully aware of what is covered and what may not be covered by your chosen warranty. Please reference the definitions available below to ensure you will know exactly what you are getting.

Learn more about our available roofing warranties here.

Products
These are the shingles covered by the specific manufacturer’s warranty listed.

Warranty Coverage
This explains what each manufacturer considers a ‘defect’ that they would be willing to cover under the warranty.

Warranty Length
The length of time the warranty will be valid in some form.  Also listed here is the requirements necessary to qualify for the full warranty.

SFDH
Single Family Dwelling Home.  A single-unit home does not include duplexes or apartments.

Non-Prorated Coverage
The specific costs covered in the non-prorated period.  Material coverage will include accessories such as nails, flashings, etc.  Also included is Labor.  Tear off and disposal costs, such as a dumpster, vary depending on the manufacturer.

Non-Prorated Years
The amount of years the non-prorated coverage will be effective.

Non-Prorated Non-SFDH Years
The amount of years the non-prorated coverage will be effective in units other than Single Family Dwelling Homes.

Pro-rated in Years
The length of time covered by the prorated warranty.  A pro-rated warranty only  covers the cost of the shingles and does not cover labor or accessories.  It also covers a smaller percentage of the shingle cost as time goes by.

Pro-rated Non-SFDH
The length of time covered by the prorated warranty in non-Single Family Dwelling Homes.  This period is typically longer than the standard pro-rated period, meaning that the warranty continues to lower the percentage of shingle costs covered.

Retained Value SFDH
In a Single Family Dwelling Home, this is the percentage of shingles covered in by a lifetime warranty after the prorated period ends.

Transferability
Defines if you are able to transfer the warranty, and if so, under what conditions.

Transfer Requirement
Most manufacturers require that you notify them of the transfer 60 days before you sell the home, or pay an additional fee.

Wind Warranty (MPH)
The strength of winds covered by the warranty.  At Brady Roofing, we install our shingles with 6 nails ea, to give you the option of the highest wind warranty possible.

Wind Warranty (Years)
The length of time wind damage will be covered under the warranty.  After this period, shingle blow-offs will not be covered.

Algae Warranty (Years)
This warranty is not often used in Utah, but would cover any algae damage.

This first sheet is a list of basic architectural shingles and their corresponding warranties:

Warranty-Comparison

If you are looking for an advanced architectural shingle, find the shingle of your choice on the chart below:

Warranty-Comparison2

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Deciphering Your Roofing Warranty

Decifering-Your-Roofing-Warranty

By Dymon Brady

Many feel the most important possessions they own are those under the roof of their own home, not to mention the monetary value of the home itself.  Because we protect our valuable possessions with the roofing system, we can sometimes get bogged down with the decision of which product to have installed on our roof.

When choosing a product to put on your roof, perhaps the most important question to ask is which brand has the best history of lasting the life of it’s warranty in the area where you live.  The next important question is what warranty does that product cover.

A roofing warranty commits your manufacturer and roofing contractor to doing their best possible work.  These warranties can be incredibly valuable to the consumer.  However, warranties often are used as a marketing tool, and thus should be studied and understood by the consumer to avoid misunderstandings or unnecessary upgrades.  I want to simplify your warranty options to make it easier to understand which warranty is right for you on your single family home.

Material Warranty

A material warranty covers some or all of the roofing material costs for a set period of time.  Here are some questions to ask yourself about your material warranty:

  1. What is the duration of the warranty?

  2. Is the warranty transferable?  If so, what is the transfer period?  This is good to know if you plan on selling your house in 10 years, and the transfer period only lasts 5 years.

  3. Is the warranty voided if someone other than the initial contractor does a repair on the roof?

  4. If it is a lifetime warranty, is there a maximum number of years covered?  Sometimes a 30-50 year warranty will be labeled as a lifetime warranty.

  5. Is there a full-coverage period?  If so, how long is it?  Most full-coverage periods last 5-10 years.  After that period of time, what will they cover?

  6. Is it a pro-rated warranty only?

A full coverage warranty will cover everything including the dumpster, nails, flashings, ice shield, etc, in addition to the shingles.   A pro-rated warranty covers the cost of the shingle only, and does not include accessories.  Typically, the shingles make up 25% of the total cost of installing a roof.  Accessories are deceivingly expensive.

Labor Warranty

A labor warranty is generally provided by the contractor and is offered as a warranty on their workmanship.  Here are a few questions to ask about your labor warranty:

  1. What is the duration of the warranty?

  2. Is it transferable?

  3. Does it cover workmanship and full labor?

A workmanship warranty guarantees the contractors quality of work.  If a problem is found and deemed to be a result of the installation process, the contractor will provide free labor to fix it.

Contractors don’t generally provide a full labor warranty.  Under a full labor warranty, all labor is covered on any repairs for a certain period of time, whether the problem be a result of poor installation or a manufacturers defect.  Because an unconditional labor warranty is not usually provided by the contractor, it is important to correlate this warranty period with the manufacturer’s warranty to make sure the full coverage period is as long as possible (5 to 10 years as the standard period).

There are 3 manufacturers, that I know of, that offer upgraded warranties on single family residential roofs that include full coverage of material and labor for a certain period of time.  For example, CertainTeed’s 5 star warranty on lifetime shingles offer 50 years of full coverage on materials, and 25 years full coverage on workmanship.  This is an incredible warranty, especially because historically, typical shingles only last between 17-18 years.  A warranty like this will cost, on average, $800.  If you are already spending $8,000 or more on a new roof, the cost of this warranty is a great value.

I should note, however, that there are very few upgraded warranties in general that I believe are worth the money they cost.  Only a small number of these warranties will give you more coverage than the expected life of the product.  I do believe there are manufacturer’s full system warranties that are well worth their money.  If you spend a little bit of time investigating, you can invest in insurance for your roof.  Your roof is one of the largest investments you will make on your home.

Keep in mind, as I said earlier, that warranties can be used as a marketing tool.  Lawyers can even get into changing the fine print on a manufacturer warranty to make the warranty appear to cover more than it actually does.  This makes it all the more important to put in the time to understand the warranty of your shingle.

If you have any questions about your warranty, or would like to know more about the warranties we offer here at Brady Roofing, contact us today!

Also, see our available warranties.

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A Comprehensive Guide to Metal Roofing Options

by Dymon Brady

Are you looking to learn more about our metal roofing options? Metal roofing can be very popular, and depending on how it is installed, it is an incredibly dependable system.

Our roofing panels are great for both residential and commercial roofing.

See the chart below for a quick reference point of what options are available to you. Not sure what your roof slope is? Learn how to calculate your roofing slope here.

Your-Metal-Roofing-Options-Chart

SS675 NewTech Panel Profile

For roofs with a pitch of 3/12 or higher, we install a SS 675 panel profile designed by NewTech. It features a 1 X ¾” tall metal panel with a seam that snaps and locks into place. This seam conceals the fasteners and provides a clean, smooth look.

One big benefit of this panel is that we can provide it in a range of anywhere from 24 – 18 gauge thickness in stainless steel. The color options in painted galvanized are limited to 24 gauge thickness. See the table below for a reference point on metal thickness.

Gauge

Many other options will include a thinner panel (as thin as 29 gauge). We feel that it is important to offer you the longest lasting systems and with the most durability possible.

In high wind areas, it is not only a good idea to go with a 24 gauge thickness, but you may want to consider going to a narrower panel with more clips to prevent blow-offs over time.

SS150 NewTech Panel Profile

If your roof has a pitch of 3/12 or less, you will want to install the SS150 NewTech panel profile. This panel actually features a mechanical seam with a concealed fastener, ensuring that no water will penetrate the fasteners.

If your roof is between 1/12 and 2/12 pitch, it will need to have an inseam sealant to ensure that it is watertight, even in problematic areas. The panel will be seamed and crimped with a seamer right on site. If the roof slope is less than 1/12, a flat roof system can be designed to look like a metal roof in the event that is the visual appeal you’re after.

General Custom Options

Width between panel ribs can vary from 12” to 17”, depending on your preferences.
Choose your own color from over 30 color choices.
Choose between stainless steel, which is slightly more expensive with a fine finish, and galvanized steel, which is economical and durable.
We provide a 20-35 year warranty against considerable color fading.
If you opt for our McElroy metal panels, we offer a standard 35 year material warranty for both residential and commercial roofs.

About Our Process

Our panels have higher upfront installation costs than our asphalt shingle systems will, though they will last longer. The metal panels are truly of the highest quality, as is our installation process. We have a beautiful system that delivers long-lasting, aesthetically pleasing results.

What sets our process apart?

Our own panel machine rolls out the metal roofing panels on site.
We only do the highest quality snap lock and mechanical seam panels.
You will find one panel (length wise) will stretch from the ridge to the roof’s edge.
We can save you money over another contractor ordering the same service. Other contractors may have to pay a manufacturer to fabricate the metal on site or to have panels delivered on large trucks.
Because we are there every step of the way, we can ensure that your panels are of the highest quality, clean and scratch free.
Our metal division foreman, Ignacio, is a recognized expert in the installation of metal roofing. We have received several phone calls from other roofing contractors who want to learn from him and about our system.

We feel confident that we can offer the finest quality of materials and installation for the best value! Give us a call for a free roofing estimate today! 801-487-5151.

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Zinc and Cedar Shingles

By Dymon Brady

This job is so unique, we just had to share it with you!

A customer contacted us wanting us to install a cedar shingle roof with 24 gauge Zinc flashings, drip edge, gutters and valley metal.   A beautiful and rare combination!

However, Cedar shingles emit a tannic acid over the first 5 years after installation.  This acid will actually drip onto the metal gutters and roof flashings below and potentially turn them black or even eat holes through them completely!

The only metal recommended for gutters under a cedar roof is stainless steel.  Galvanized steel, painted galvanized, copper – none of these metals are guaranteed to hold up under the tannic acid.

What really blows our minds is that if zinc is installed above cedar shingles (i.e. As a ridge cap or head wall flashing), it will actually serve to preserve the shingles below as it runs onto them during storms.

We love the final decision made on this home.  He chose to install Zinc ridge caps above, both complementing and preserving the cedar below, and stainless steel gutters, sure to prove the test of time!

shake-and-zink

It is both a functional and beautiful roof.

The gutters will be painted to match the valley and drip metal.

This customer was going for a very specific look so you will notice there are no eaves, and the gutter sits on top of the top course of brick rather than on the face of the wall like most gutters.  It will look akin to an internal gutter system with heat tape running inside of it.

If you are interested in a specific look for your roof, contact us today for a free estimate!

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